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Itaewon was international before it was underground. The US military base made it a district where foreigners were normal. Everything that came after built on that foundation.

The US Forces Korea base at Yongsan has been the defining geographic fact of Itaewon since the Korean War. The district developed with international restaurants, foreign-facing bars, and a tolerance for non-Korean social norms because the proximity to the base meant foreigners were a normal presence.

Cakeshop opened in 2012 as the turning point for the underground club era. The international booking infrastructure developed rapidly afterward. Pistol, Contra, and the broader Itaewon underground scene grew and consolidated. By 2021, Itaewon had the density of underground venues that made it Asia’s most credible circuit destination.

On October 29, 2022, 159 people died in a crowd crush in the narrow alley near the Hamilton Hotel during a Halloween gathering. The impact on the district’s nightlife was immediate and sustained. Many venues closed temporarily. The changed relationship with large informal gatherings persisted.

The gradual return of nightlife activity began in 2023. Venues adapted their programming and operations. The district’s reputation as a destination for serious music remained intact, but the social confidence was altered.

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The DJ Diaries covers electronic music culture, history, gear, and the Seoul scene.