Home » Seoul’s Factory Belt: Drinking in Yeongdeungpo, Guro and Mullae
⏱ 21 min read

Ask a visitor where Seoul goes out and you’ll get Hongdae, Itaewon, Gangnam. Ask a fifty-five-year-old man who spent thirty years on a production line in Guro and you’ll get a completely different city, one where the answer was Yeongdeungpo nightlife, right outside the factory gate, because central Seoul was an hour away on a bus after a ten-hour shift.

That street is still there. Several of them are. The southwest of this city, Yeongdeungpo and Guro and Mullae and the blocks around them, holds one of the largest and least documented drinking economies in Korea. It exists for a reason that has nothing to do with students, tourists or nightlife as a leisure category. It exists because that’s where the factories were.

This is a guide to it, and to why it looks the way it does. I’ve lived and drunk out there, and I’d send any curious expat there before I sent them to a third night in Hongdae.

My second home in Korea was in Yeongdeungpo. It was blue-collar back then. Walking around those first months I found noraebang after noraebang, pubs, and a few Korean nightclubs, all under neon signs, and as far as I could tell I was the only expat on the street. It felt nothing like the other districts I had been going out in. Not much has changed.

Yeongdeungpo Nightlife: the Short Version

A mid-1970s dusk street by Guro: brick factory wall, telegraph poles, pojangmacha tents glowing, distant silhouettes
Shift’s end in the factory belt: the walk from the gate to the drinking tents, mid-1970s.

Yeongdeungpo and the surrounding southwest are Seoul’s working-class night. Expect: cheap, older, food-first, loud, no door policy, little English, and an early start. People are drinking at seven because their shift ended at six, not pre-drinking for something at eleven.

You will find hof and pocha in enormous density, grilled meat, jokbal, 국밥, standing bars, old-style nightclubs and singing rooms. Almost nothing curated for anyone under thirty-five. What you won’t find is a scene in the sense this site usually uses the word. That’s fine. It’s a different product and in some ways a better one.

If you want one landmark to orient by: Yeongdeungpo station. The streets radiating from it, with Times Square as the modern anchor and the older drinking blocks around and behind it.

Mullae and Yeongdeungpo Nightlife Map: Venues, Streets and What’s On

Here is Mullae and Yeongdeungpo as it stands now: the venues, the streets worth knowing and what’s on in the next two weeks. Tap a pin for the sound, the address and directions on Naver or Kakao Map.

Mullae and Yeongdeungpo nightlife map

Mullae’s metal shops share their lanes with bars, galleries and small music rooms, a short walk from Yeongdeungpo’s station, market and live hall.

Venues on this map: Seoul Art Space Mullae (문래예술공장), 5-4 Gyeongin-ro 88-gil; MH Live Hall (명화라이브홀), 30 Beodeunaru-ro; Yeongdeungpo Market (영등포시장); Times Square (타임스퀘어); Mullae Station (문래역); Bar Bam (바밤), 2F, 872 Gyeongin-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu.

Streets and corners: Mullae creative village (문래창작촌), Mullae Station (문래역), Yeongdeungpo Market (영등포시장), Yeongdeungpo Station (영등포역).


How the Factories Got to Yeongdeungpo

Yeongdeungpo was Seoul’s industrial district before Gangnam was anything at all, and the reason is unromantic: flat land next to a railway.

Rail arrived in the early twentieth century, factories followed, and by 1936 Seoul had absorbed the area as an industrial zone. It became one of the city’s first formal wards in 1943. Textiles came first, including the Gyeongseong Spinning operation whose old office building still stands as a heritage property. Then breweries and heavy manufacturing across the decades that followed. For most of the twentieth century, when Koreans said Yeongdeungpo they meant work.

The bigger wave came south of it. The Guro export industrial complex opened on 1 April 1967 as Korea’s first inland export zone, with President Park Chung-hee at the ceremony. It started with 2,460 workers. By the end of 1978 it employed about 114,000. Exports passed a hundred million dollars in 1971 and reached 1.87 billion by 1980, something like a tenth of everything the country sold abroad.

A hundred and fourteen thousand people, in one place, working shifts.

The night the factories built

Why the Southwest Drinks at Seven

The workforce that built Yeongdeungpo, Guro and Mullae nightlife, and what it became

공장이 만든 밤

Guro workers, 19672,460
Guro workers, 1978about 114,000
Guro workers, 199542,000
G Valley workers, 2015about 160,000

A hundred and fourteen thousand peopleIn one place, working shifts. The complex opened on 1 April 1967 and by 2015, rebranded as G Valley, held more workers than the factories ever did. Track runs from 0 to 160,000.

Why the southwest built its own night
Six o'clockThe shift endsTen hours on the line, a shared room, no kitchen worth cooking in
The commuteDowntown is an hour awayBy bus, after a shift. The Line 2 loop through Guro was not finished until 1984
Seven o'clockThe night starts at the gateHof, pocha and grill rooms at working class prices
TodayIt never went awayThe same colleagues, the same streets, now with software engineers
1984 Line 2 loop finished1,279 metal shops still in Mullae, 2023
New data, October 2026
Exports, 1971$100 million
Exports, 1980$1.87 billion
Exports, 1988over $4 billion
Exports, 1999$1.5 billion

Guro complex exports. The peak came in 1988. Track runs from $0 to $4 billion.

About 2,500 to 1,279 metal businesses in Mullae, from the 1990s peak to 2023. Over 90 percent rent their workshops.

Sources: National Archives of Korea · Seoul Shinmun

From this article: National Archives of Korea, Hankyung MONEY. Chart by The DJ Diaries. How each district was made The night in rounds

Who They Were, and Why It Matters to a Bar

The Guro workforce was overwhelmingly young, overwhelmingly rural in origin, and overwhelmingly female. The women who staffed Korea’s export miracle came from the countryside as teenagers and lived in the honeycomb rooms of Garibong-dong. Those were the 벌집, subdivided buildings where a corridor of tiny rooms shared a single toilet between dozens of people. Average monthly take-home pay for a woman on those lines in the early eighties was in the region of 74,000 won.

I’m not going to editorialise about that beyond noting the obvious. Every Korean over sixty knows this history; most foreigners living here have never heard it. It’s the direct ancestor of the country you’re currently enjoying.

What it produced, in nightlife terms, is specific. A district full of people with a little money, no kitchen of their own worth cooking in, a shared room they didn’t want to sit in, and a shift that ended at a fixed hour. That’s the ideal customer base for cheap food-and-drink businesses at volume, and the southwest filled with them accordingly. The pattern is identical to what a steel town in Ontario or a mill town anywhere produces. So the atmosphere in an old Yeongdeungpo hof is legible to anyone from a North American industrial city even if they can’t read a word of the menu.

Over the years I’ve had my share of beers out here with colleagues and friends, and the rhythm never changes. You talk, you drink beer, you eat anju, and there’s always a small dish of chips or Korean snacks the owner puts down for free, which also happens to make you thirsty.

Why They Did Not Go Downtown

A crowded Seoul city bus with its conductor, photographed in November 1976
The Seoul bus commute, November 1976. This is the journey that made going downtown after a shift unthinkable, and it’s the reason the southwest built its own night. Source: National Museum of Korean Contemporary History, via Wikimedia Commons. Public domain. Original.

This part shapes the whole geography, and anyone used to a city with a single centre should know it.

Getting from the southwest into Jongno or Myeongdong in the seventies and eighties meant a long bus ride each way, at the end of a long day, to spend more money in a district built for office workers and students. The subway network that makes that trip trivial now was still being built. Line 2 was famously redesigned as a loop to serve the new Gangnam development, and the circle through Guro and Mullae wasn’t finished until 1984.

So the southwest built its own night, and it built it at working-class prices, on a working-class schedule, with working-class portions. Once a district like that exists it’s extremely durable, because the economics that made it never go away, and because the people who drank there in 1985 are still drinking there in 2026 with their former colleagues.

This also answers the question expats ask constantly: why do parts of Seoul feel so much cheaper than others for identical food and drink? It comes down to which century, and which industry, built the street you’re standing on.

What Happened to the Factories, and What Is There Now

The complexes didn’t close so much as transform. Guro’s exports slid through the nineties under wage growth and international competition. In 2000 the city rebranded the whole thing as the Seoul Digital Industrial Complex, the district everyone now calls G Valley. By 2015 it held nearly ten thousand companies and around 160,000 workers. That’s more people than the factories ever employed, just doing different work.

So the customer base didn’t vanish, it changed clothes. The bars around Guro Digital Complex station now serve software engineers on the same street pattern that served machinists. The 회식 culture of an IT company isn’t structurally different from that of a factory. Same 1차, 2차, 3차 rhythm, and if you want that explained properly there is a whole article on this site about it.

The Shape It Left

Yeongdeungpo itself has been redeveloping steadily around Times Square. The area near the station has been the subject of major redevelopment plans confirmed in 2021 that will replace the last of the old low-rise blocks near the station, including the long-standing red-light area, with high-rise mixed use. Parts of the district you might read about in older guides are gone or going.

Mullae is the one to watch. The steel workshops between Mullae and Yeongdeungpo have spent the past fifteen years acquiring galleries, studios and small bars in the gaps between working metal shops. That’s precisely the sequence that produced Seongsu a decade earlier. It’s the closest thing the southwest has to an arts district, and the place out there most likely to interest anyone reading this site. That sequence has a cost too: as early as 2016, Seoul& reported metalworkers saying rents had doubled and artists leaving as cafes moved in, the same squeeze that later hit Seongsu.

Walk through Mullae in the daytime and you can still see the workshops open, with metal being cut and milled at the shop fronts. It looks like the industrial edge of almost any North American town, except that here the art studios and small music bars have moved in between the machine shops.

Mullae at night, on foot

Mullae-dong at night, where the metal workshops and the new bars share the same alleys. Filmed by Capybara Film, posted September 2026.

Yeongdeungpo, Then and Now

Not so long ago, Yeongdeungpo had its hofs and pochas, two department stores, Lotte and Shinsegae, and a rougher side at night. There was a visible homeless population around the station, much like you see around Seoul Station today, and a well-known red-light district a few steps away.

A lot of that has toned down or disappeared as the area gentrified, especially once Times Square arrived. But walk into the Yeongdeungpo Market area and you can still feel the old vibe. Not much has changed there in years.

Mullae is cool, a great place for wine, drinks and a few little venues. There aren’t any places that host music regularly, and when a space does put something on it’s usually an art show rather than a DJ night. Still, it’s a neighbourhood worth a day of your time: walk the workshop alleys in the afternoon, then stay for a glass of wine when the shutters come down.

How to Actually Go, as a Foreigner

Some practical notes, because this isn’t a district set up for visitors and that’s most of its appeal.

Go early. Seven or eight in the evening is peak. By midnight the older rooms are winding down, which is the opposite of Itaewon.

Order food. Every one of these rooms is a food business first, both culturally and, as this site has explained at length, in terms of how it’s registered. Sitting down and ordering only alcohol reads as strange and creates a problem for the owner.

Expect no English and bring translation. Point at things. Nobody will mind.

Be aware that some blocks near Yeongdeungpo station are, or recently were, part of an old red-light area currently being redeveloped. It’s well signposted by its appearance. Walk around it.

And go with the right expectation. You’re not going out there to find a great room with a great sound system, because you won’t. You’re going to see the version of Korean nightlife that most Koreans over fifty grew up with, in the district that built the country’s export economy, at about half the price of the districts in the guidebooks.

Once you’ve done that, the rest of the city makes a lot more sense.

seoul small building night
A small building on a Seoul back street at night. Photo: Unsplash.

Go Deeper: Watch, Visit, Read

The factory belt is easier to understand on foot and on screen; these are the best ways in.

Yeongdeungpo After Dark: The People Who Built It

Before Gangnam had its name, Seoul newspapers in the 1920s were calling Yeongdeungpo (영등포) “강남”, south of the river, as Newspost has traced. The Gyeongin railway arrived around 1899 and 1900, and the factories followed: Chosun Leather in 1911, the Kyungbang textile mill in 1923, and two breweries in 1933 that became OB and Crown. The district office still keeps the old brew kettle in Yeongdeungpo Park.

The nights here were built by people coming off shifts. A Kyungbang worker who started at 16 and stayed 43 years told Newsis that for his first twenty years he worked every day of the year, no weekends. In 1979 the women of the Haitai confectionery plant in Yeongdeungpo won the eight hour day after years of twelve hour shifts and eighteen hour Sundays, a fight recorded by the Korea Democracy Foundation archive. Singer 오기택’s trot hit “영등포의 밤” (Yeongdeungpo-ui Bam, Yeongdeungpo Night) came out in the mid 1960s, was banned in the 1970s and cleared in 1987. An older resident summed up the era to Kyunghyang: “하루가 괴로웠지, 밤이 무서웠어” (the days were hard, the nights were frightening).

Myunghwa: One Building, Four Lives

명화극장 (Myunghwa Theatre) opened near the Yeongdeungpo rotary on 1 August 1982 with 1,057 seats, a 70mm screen and 46 speakers, and in 1988 Chow Yun-fat came to sign posters for A Better Tomorrow 2, Hankyoreh recalls. In 2002 the cinema became 명화나이트, which Hankyoreh called the best known adult nightclub in southwest Seoul. A 2015 visit found a crowd in its 40s and 50s, men arriving with the smell of samgyeopsal from company dinners, DJ DOC on the floor and booking waiters working the tables. It closed during the pandemic in 2020 and reopened on 25 November 2023 as Myunghwa Live Hall, a concert room for up to 2,000, with Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds on the first night.

A Thousand Won for Three Hours

Seoul’s oldest dancers are a few streets away. In 2013 Money Today counted seven or eight colatecs (콜라텍, kollatek) in Yeongdeungpo, four of them near the market, with about 500 visitors a day paying 500 won to get in. In 2024 a 73 year old regular told Hankook Ilbo, “1,000원만 내고 세 시간씩 춤추는 거야” (a thousand won and three hours of dancing), while the owner described costs far above what came through the door. Across Korea the count fell from 502 in 2019 to 418 in 2023.

A lot of nights here still end at the market. 호박집 (Hobakjip) in the sundae alley of Yeongdeungpo Market has served sundae soup since 1966, and its owner told Newspost she has worked there for more than forty years, feeding the last of the night crowd.

Mullae: Metal by Day, Music by Night

Metalworkers moved into Mullae from Cheonggyecheon in the 1980s, artists followed in the 2000s as Hongdae rents climbed, and in July 2011 Lowrise opened on a second floor above a metal company, booking DJ Soulscape and bands like 404. Machinist 손길배, in Mullae since 1983, told Herald Biz, “기술은 한 번 내꺼 되면 평생 내꺼야” (once a skill is yours, it’s yours for life). Musician Lee Yuying of GBN Live House described the neighbourhood to the Korea Times as “a community of people who had nowhere else left to go.” In 2026 the metal shops still had no relocation site.

More reading for this section

Mullae Now: Bars Among the Lathes

Mullae (문래동, Mullae-dong) is the small grid of streets beside Yeongdeungpo, one stop from Yeongdeungpo-gu Office on Line 2, where the metal shops and the bars now share the same alleys. By day it’s lathes, welding sparks and steel stacked on the pavement. By evening the shutters come down on one side of the lane and the lights come up on the other. It’s not a club district, and it doesn’t pretend to be. It’s where Seoul goes for a drink in a converted workshop before the night moves somewhere else.

The metal came first. Shops pushed out of Cheonggyecheon in the 1960s settled here, as Money Today has traced, and Seoul still counted about 1,350 small workshops in 2020, more than nine in ten of them in metal or machinery, according to the city’s own figures. Artists followed in the 2000s as Hongdae rents climbed. By 2015 about 250 of them worked out of roughly 100 studios at about ₩40,000 a pyeong a month, Hankyung reported, and the city opened Mullae Art Factory (문래예술공장) in January 2010, as Seoul Shinmun covered at the time.

Mullae creative village street, 2022
Mullae’s creative village among the metal shops, 2022. Photo: 나선우, via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

The bars came next. In 2019 the Korea Times found rents in Mullae 2-ga and 3-ga had nearly doubled in three years, with landlords planning to turn workshops into cafés and bars as leases ended, while 4-ga stayed industrial. The names that turn up in coverage tell the story of the room types: Old Mullae, a craft beer bar in a wooden factory shed listed by the JoongAng Daily, and Vinyl House (비닐하우스), a natural wine bar with more than a hundred bottles, and the rooftop bar Mullae Chinchin (문래친친), both featured in Allure Korea. Music has a foothold too. GBN Live House, run by musician Lee Yuying, grew out of a room that opened in 2014, and in 2019 she told the Korea Times her landlord had tried to double the rent.

The card data says Mullae is an early evening place. Hankyung MONEY reported in 2026 that more than 70 percent of spending comes from people who live outside Seoul, that Saturday is the busiest day, and that only about 6 percent of sales happen between 10pm and 1am. Spending grew by more than 15 percent a year from 2021 to 2023 and then fell back in 2025. It’s a first stop, not a last one.

Mullae-dong street, March 2023
A Mullae lane in March 2023: a bar’s neon on one side, a workshop’s shutter on the other. Photo: lazy fri13th, via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

Not everyone is happy about the mix. “Frankly, we find the young people intimidating,” machinist Yu Tae-ho told the Korea Times in 2019, and artist Kim Yun-ik, in Mullae since 2009, put it simply: the neighbourhood is a manufacturing space first. In June 2023 Yeongdeungpo-gu announced a plan to move the district’s 1,279 metal shops out together, as Seoul Shinmun reported. By July 2026, BizHankook found, there was still no site and no support package. For now the lathes and the bar stools share the same lanes, which is exactly why people come.

More reading for this section

FAQ

Is Yeongdeungpo good for nightlife?

Yes, if you want the working-class Korean version rather than the international one. Expect density: hof, pocha, grill restaurants and older-style bars. Prices sit well below Hongdae or Itaewon. It starts and finishes earlier, and there’s very little English. What it doesn’t have is a club or live music scene in the sense visitors usually mean.

Why is there so much nightlife around Yeongdeungpo and Guro?

Because that’s where Seoul’s factories were. Yeongdeungpo became the city’s industrial district from the colonial period onward. The Guro export complex opened in 1967 and employed roughly 114,000 people by 1978. Getting into central Seoul after a shift meant a long bus ride. So the districts built their own dense, cheap drinking economy on site, and it survived the factories.

What was the Guro Industrial Complex?

Korea’s first inland export industrial zone, opened on 1 April 1967 in southwest Seoul, initially making textiles and clothing and later electronics and optical goods. It grew from 2,460 workers to about 114,000 by the end of 1978, mostly young women who had migrated from rural areas. It accounted for roughly a tenth of national exports at its peak. The complex became the Seoul Digital Industrial Complex, now called G Valley, in 2000.

Where do working-class Koreans drink in Seoul?

Predominantly in the industrial southwest around Yeongdeungpo, Guro and Mullae, in the older parts of Jongno, and in ordinary neighbourhood alleys near residential subway stations across the city. The common features are early hours, food-led menus, low prices, no door policy, and a customer base of colleagues rather than friend groups or tourists.

Is Mullae worth visiting?

For anyone interested in how Seoul districts change, yes. Mullae is a working steel and metalworking district that has gradually acquired galleries, artist studios, cafes and small bars in the spaces between operating workshops. It’s following the same trajectory Seongsu did a decade earlier. Visit on a weekday if you want to see the industry, and in the evening if you want the bars.

Sources and Archives

The industry. The National Archives record of the Guro Industrial Complex is the source for the worker and export figures in this article. Pressian on the honeycomb villages and the women who lived in them and Kyunghyang on what the complex left behind are the human side of the same numbers. the Guro cultural encyclopedia entry on the 벌집 documents the housing itself.

The district. Yeongdeungpo-gu’s own history pages · Opinion News on Yeongdeungpo as the face of Seoul south of the river · the modern industrial heritage of the Gyeongin belt · the surviving Gyeongseong Spinning office building. On the station-area redevelopment confirmed in 2021, Asia Economy and Financial News both reported it at the time. For Mullae, the district’s art village page and a walkthrough of the steel-and-art streets.

What That Left Behind

Old photographs, and this is the good part. The industrial southwest is one of the most heavily photographed parts of twentieth century Korea. That is because the state was documenting its own economic miracle. Search 구로공단, 가리봉동, 영등포 and 벌집 in e영상역사관 national archive photography and National Archives of Korea digital collections for the official record, including factory floors and the export ceremonies, then search the same terms in Seoul Photo Archive (서울사진아카이브) and Seoul Institute, Seoul in Photographs for the street-level version. The contrast between the two archives, the ceremony and the housing, tells the story better than any article can.

A note on the photographs. Everything linked below is an archive you can browse, not an image gallery I have reproduced. Korean public-sector archives publish under the KOGL system (KOGL / 공공누리), and the permitted use is marked per item rather than site-wide, so check the marking on anything you want to reuse and treat it as a question for the archive rather than for me. On this site the rule is simpler: I link to the archive and shoot my own photographs.

Read next: how every Seoul nightlife district was made · the traditional districts most expats never find · the print alleys under Euljiro · the neighbourhood by neighbourhood guide

Picture Credits

Historical images on this site are used under the licence stated for each file. KOGL Type 1 is the Korean public sector open licence permitting commercial use and adaptation with attribution; public domain items carry no restriction. If you hold rights in any image here and believe it has been used in error, get in touch and it will be removed.

Written from Seoul, by someone who has been in the booth for more than twenty years. More on the site, or book a DJ.

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The DJ Diaries is written from the booth by a DJ who has spent more than twenty years playing house and disco in Seoul. Where to go, how the night works, and the history behind the sound.